Now in its fifth showing for NYFW, The Concept Korea Fashion Collectives put five emerging designers on display at the Lincoln Center Stage.
It was one of the first shows of the day, but a large crowd had gathered to preview anticipated collections by Doho, Lie Sang Bong, Resurrection, Steve J & Yoni P, and Son Jung Wan. These were the up-and-coming designers selected to present at F/W2012 by the Republic of Korea. Since 2010, the Concept Korea collaborative has helped local designers in their efforts to break into the US fashion market.
While every line presented its own character, the designers were bound by the theme “Ink Wash Painting,” which is an East Indian art technique. They were each asked to represent the spirit of ink wash in their collections.
Antique’en by Doho showed an eye-catching display of feminine fabrics like sheer, fur, and satin with sequined-embellishments. The line’s handcrafted textures were inspired by an antique, noble interpretation of traditional style. The collection’s monotones and “rhythmical” silhouettes brought a fresh perspective to old-world classics.
Son Jon Wan also layered a mix of furs, tone-on-tone, sheer, and florals for The Oriental Winter Garden, which was inspired by contemporary artist Marc Quinn’s vibrantly colored painting of the same name. In a similar fashion to the art, Wan’s collection was a painted display of romanticism and Oriental fantasy.
Steve J & Yoni P presented a playful mix of delicate fabrics and studded quilted leathers for the And The Moon Came Nearer collection. Straggly-haired models draped in the collection’s textured knits donned gazes that seemed to drift off far into the constellations. It was a fitting stance, particularly for a collection that was created with “functional futurism” in mind.
Resurrection’s Transformational Military line was fashion-forward but in another way, having called on androgynous male models to pull off its “transformational military” menswear look. Heavy coats, tailored lines, and black leather colored this collection.
Those dark themes carried over to Lie Sang Bong’s Dol Dam collection, whose “reinvention of versatility” was inspired by Korean stone walls.
From wall to wall, the presentation was filled with onlookers snapping photos of the both the collections and familiar faces like Taylor Momson and Miss Jay Alexander.
– Tracey L.