Composed of vintage finds, repurposed industrial accents and warm wood tones, the simple elegant décor of Extra Fancy belies both the allusions of its name and the sophisticated power of its culinary ambitions. Taking cue from the traditions of New England fishing enclaves and mixing in the playful, eclectic artistry of owners Mark Rancourt and Robert Krueger, Extra Fancy’s menu showcases its exceptionally fresh, local ingredients with disarming charisma. The result is downright beautiful food that defies its graceful appearance with a brazen punch of flavor.
As expected, the seafood is spot on—perfectly succulent, the fresh tang of ocean still wafting in whatever preparation you choose. Though the “Cape Cod Clambake,” served fetchingly in a pail, is sure to satisfy your cold weather beach yearnings, what got us excited on a recent visit was the variety of ways our palates were treated to the sea.
Fried oysters were given an addictively light crunch and a smoky boldness of bacon and fresh horseradish, before being placed back in their shells and disappearing in record speed at our table. Meanwhile, the pleasant, salty bitterness of anchovies and earthy black olives made the delicacy of a tuna steak sing like a siren. Even an apparently simple dish like the fish and chips, were given an intoxicating oomph that kept our table devouring in rapt concentration.
At any given visit, smoked fish will be on the menu in some ridiculously delicious form. Don’t hesitate before ordering it, but mind you, like the oysters it has a tendency to disappear wildly. And then there is dessert. A chocolate cookie and salted caramel ice cream sandwich so good, it just might ruin you.
True to their surroundings, the cocktails have the immediate appeal of old school seduction—thoughtfully composed, impeccably presented with just the hint of a wink and a deftly poured potency.
Entering the warm glow of Extra Fancy, the feeling of welcome is undeniable. With a very friendly happy hour and an equally gregarious late night menu, there never seems to be any shortage of reasons to stop in for a drink and a bite. What a wonderful thing.
– Ava Fedorov
Photographs by Jeff Owens for Socially Superlative
302 Metropolitan Ave
(347) 422 – 0937